Home is Where we Hook-up

July 20, 2008

Fitting In

Filed under: Travel in the U.S. — Heligypsy @ 6:46 am

So far on this trip, all five days of it, I have yet to be identified correctly as an American. At least, not to my face. Some of the looks I get indicate that I am definitely not fooling anyone. And I’m not trying to, either. I’m proud to be an American, proud and extremely grateful to have come from that lucky sperm club. I do like to blend in, better chance of seeing the local side of things. There is something very satisfying to me when I am mistakenly addressed with “Bonjour”, like on the train the day of my arrival. Or as a first guess, identified as German by the man at the small produce shop down the alleyway. The information center girl asked me “Are you English?” and repeated my reply with questioning surpise “Ohhh, your American?” I walk out the door feeling good about myself, like I have broken a stereotype or two of the “ugly American”, without compromising my own identity. This boils down to respect, at least I think it does.

Eight years of good fortune traveling alongside Keith to Australia, Italy, Greece, Belize, and scattered countries along the way. Eight years of sometimes sticking out like a sore thumb, being lost and unable to ask for assistance, chased away for peeking in a workshop, yelled at for walking IN the OUT door, and even threatened by pickpockets. My friend Erika saved us and chastised them in Italian with “Please, boys, don’t make me break your balls”, ran them off, but she was shaking afterward. She was on her way to audition in Bologna for a role on Donna Ventura, an Italian reality show. I told her to use that story as an example of why she should be picked for “Adventure Woman” (loosely translated). Didn’t get the part, but we had a great trip.

Anyway, through the years I’ve begun to dress more conscientious of the locale I am visiting. Heck, ya know skirts are way more comfy anyway – most times. I always attempt to speak the language, even if it is just to say that I don’t speak the language. Just give me 25 more years and I will be fluent in Greek! I am quiet when walking the deserted streets between 1-3 p.m. when most people are having lunch and napping. I know the camera in my hand screams tourista! and there is nothing to be done about that, I will not put it away, these images are far to precious not to capture in some form. I do not take intentional pictures of a person without asking their permission, boy have we learned that one the hard way. This rule excludes the masses at the beach, on city streets, etc., fair game there.

None of these things feel to me as if I am pretending to be anything I’m not, it always feels like a good healthy dose of respect for myself and my surroundings. We all expect other nationalities immigrating to the U.S. to know our customs and language, that in itself makes it the right thing to do in other countries.

July 17, 2008

Travel Days

Filed under: Travel in the U.S. — Heligypsy @ 8:55 am

In these days of the constant debate over how much airline “miles” are worth, I cashed in 50,000 of my accrued 93,000 miles on a round-trip ticket to Alassio, Italy. Well, not directly. The carrier I wanted to take directly to Genova did not have award seats left. Debatable whether they ever do, but not worth the argument, I’m flexible. Opting for the next best thing, I chose an alliance carrier that would take me to Milan. The charge for the trip equaled the taxes on what the fare would have been, and a newly established $25 transaction fee, (but that never showed up on my statement and they didn’t ask for it at the check-in counter, so I paid the taxes only). A grand total of $97 – yes, that’s ninety-seven dollars.

Handing my passport to the check-in agent did not bode well, I was not in the system. He asked to see my confirmation. That didn’t yield results either, so I was instructed to make a trip over to the special ticketing area this airline had set up against the windows in the terminal. By using the ticket number from my confirmation the original reservation was found. This was explained as,

“United never puts the numbers in the correct location, and you are very lucky this flight is not full, otherwise you would not have gotten a seat.”

Since I was flying home via a different airline, the agent suggested to check with my returning carrier now, before I leave, to ensure my flight coming home is secure. Very good idea. By taking the time to do so, it was confirmed in very few minutes that my return flight home is clearly booked with no concerns or issues. Keith put on his Swiss accent and joked “Ve vill not accept ze reservation if ze numbers are not in ze correct location!”

I just remind myself $97.

Keith was flying that day as well, his flight went direct to Genova and left 50 minutes before mine. Our gates were only 2 apart, so we got to hang out until his flight boarded. Was strange to watch the shark like fin of his plane slowly circle the terminal, first on the one side, next appearing across the way, slowly and smoothly disappearing until take-off. I watched the underbelly of the jet climb beyond the windows, “see you in 17 hours” I smiled to myself.

No one really wants to sit on an airplane for 6+ hours. Thankfully there is usually the allure of the destination making it worthwhile. No one EVER wants to be on the international flight with the screaming baby. The departure gate is where I first learned that I was, in fact on that flight. Watching two orthodox women feed sandwiches to their group of six kids, I smiled and noted how extremely well behaved and adorable the kids were. And only two were screaming age. I didn’t realize until I was seated on the plane there were 4 other screaming age babies surrounding me. You do know these little cutesy things are like dominos, right? One goes off and the others pretty much follow. Next comes the faint odor of baby poop, well at least that one had a legit reason for going off. The poor little guy I don’t know, 4 years old sitting in the seat ahead of me had major air sickenss. I did feel sorry for him, but now add vomit to the aroma – seriously this was hellish.

But what can you do? This is life, and it’s not really that bad. Plus, I didn’t pay the $2300 full fare, I might have a bit more tolerance.

Security in other countries is really a different ballgame than the U.S. That is surely not to say I felt any more or less “safe”, seemed about the same/same to me, only I didn’t have to wait in any gigantic lines or take my shoes off at any point, that’s all. I did feel triumphant though, departing the plane in Milan, breezing through passport control, picking my bag 3rd off the conveyor and on my way to the bus to the train. Sweet!

The bus is where I began to question my plans for travel on this next leg of the trip. A 7 Euro fare, about 55 minutes ride through downtown Milano. I chose to sit up front, so I could get the best view. The song, Perfect Day playing on the overhead speakers seemed to be talking to me, “keep hanging on”. The brakes on the bus sound like an injured dog and the driver insists on being right up on the ass end of every single car in front of him. Getting out of the airport consisted of richocheting between concrete medians, as if we were on rails. Thankfully, I was exhausted and decided this might be a good time to shut my eyes and let sleep carry me to Central Station, where apparently we made it in one piece.

Too bad the Milano train station was under massive reconstruction. I’d intended to take the first of what will be an enormous amount of photos, but so much of the building inside and out was covered in 12′ plywood, chainlink and banners, I just didn’t bother. I shouldn’t have had much time for photos anyway, since my train would leave 25 minutes after I arrived. My luck for speedy transport did not hold, the 11:10 train was sold out – I would have never guessed that to happen. I took the next train, an hour later with a change in Genova. Again, I was somewhat empowered by the simplicity of the next process. Exited the train in Genova, walked down a flight of stairs, stared at a timetable with a group of other travelers until I found “Alassio”, walked underground to bin 12, back up the stairs to the platform and waited for my train. Remember, I hadn’t had any real sleep in more than 24 hours, at this point just walking felt like an accomplishment.

Once seated on the train that I had confirmed will take me “home”, I was almost at once herded out of my seat and down through what felt like all the cars of the entire locomotive. A man banged on the window and said something to me and the other passengers, holding up 3 fingers. No sooner did he disappear than two men with reflective coveralls came aboard to move us along. I have no single idea of what or why or where we were moving, but it was clear we were moving. I just followed the girls who obviously understood what was going on. As we moved through cars they would tell other people, who would get up and follow too.

I managed to explain to the first man (who approached me later at my new seat) “Mi dispiace, non parla Italiano” to which he bit his hand, smiling all the while. Later when he came back to stamp my ticket he said “Bon Jour” I replied “Bon Jour” mostly because I don’t know how to say “I don’t speak French” in French, and I was too tired to think to just say “hello”.

Departing the train in Alassio my bloodshot eyes spotted Keith coming towards me on the platform, we’d made it – together again to explore this bit of Italy for the next 6 weeks.

July 6, 2008

Zoe the later years

Filed under: Dogs,Pets,Travel — Heligypsy @ 3:07 pm

Zoe and I had a trip to the vet last week. Nothing is wrong, per se, but it was time for medication refill and an overall check-up. I arrived armed with a notepad listing several items to discuss and questions to go over. And thank-goodness too, as our French-Canadian vet, friendly as she was, was moving like a tornado and without notes I would have forgotten more than the two vaccine updates we will have to return for next week.

There was a time in Zoe’s life that she required major daily physical exercise. Swimming has long been the best activity for her, the impact on her 3 legged body much less than the miles of chasing rabbits in sagebrush. Days without strenuous exercise were days I paid for, tormented with incessant barking, digging, she chewed the seat backs in my new car once – my fault for leaving her there for so long. We always made a crucial priority to “run” her, especially on long days drives. Now, however, the extent that she is able to move around is so drastically reduced. At 13 yrs. old, she sleeps most of the day and will hop pathetically a few hundred yards and flop to the ground with a “harumph” I watch her hobble around, I lift her whenever I can so she doesn’t have to do stairs and I can hardly imagine describing her antics as a pup to someone just meeting her. Ever see a “crazy daisy”, a foam flower sprinkler attachment? She would bite at and chase spraying water for hours on end. We could throw sticks in the swift moving Owens River and she would launch off the rivers banks, retrieve the stick and be ready again, and again, and again.

Now I am driving her to the waters edge, helping her ease into the water, lightly tossing one of two sticks for the day and we call it good. Each day I wonder if this could be one of her last, she is just so old and feeble – still my loving friend, but hardly the dog I remember.

Each new person we encountered in the vet was full of surprise to learn her age, I think one woman may have not believed me,

“She looks SO good!”

And so it turns out, this is what I am really paying for when I bring her in for an office visit. She does not have heartworm, her hind leg is not failing, ok, so she’s eating dirt – not a deficiency just a weird habit (and not a new one, either). But most importantly, I watch these new medical professionals interact with her in amazement at how wonderful she truly is.

Today is not her last day, and tomorrow probably isn’t either. A young technician and I laughed about this, she shared with me her own little story about going to vet school,

“Now I come home everyday, and my dog is sick with something new, I am sure of it!” I am so glad to meet a kindred spirit of pet obsession.

Keith and I secured a boarding facility for Zoe for the 6 weeks we will be in Italy. Took three tries (and an offer from my mom to fly her to Bishop) before we found the right one. But we did find it, and as far as leaving Zoe for our romp around the Riviera I am all set.

Now, I just have to pack!

June 28, 2008

History Lessons

Filed under: Travel,Travel in the U.S. — Heligypsy @ 10:06 am

The Capital of Australia is Canberra.

The Capital of Greece is Athens.

The Capital of Belize is Belmopan.

The Capital of Canada is Ottawa.

My own Nations Capital is Washington D.C, and up until this past May 2008, it was the only one on this list that I had never been to. Keith and I have long been planning a visit to the eastern U.S., but, as things tend to go with our lifestyle, other trips seemed to always get in the way. At one point we finally just had to make a plan and do it. A quote from the movie As Good as it Gets sticks in my head, where Carol the waitress yells at Melvin,

“I want your life for one minute where somebody offers me a convertible so I can get outta this city.” I, of course, in a sense, am playing the role of Melvin, complaining about having to “take another trip”.

So, now we’ve been and I hardly know where to start to share on this blog. I have decided to leave our visits to Gettysburg, Colonial Williamsburg, Jamestown, Richmond, and Monticello to blogs and stories of their own and only cover the one-day, all day guided coach tour that we took of D.C. itself.

It was an early morning start, had to be on the bus by 6:15 a.m., and as would prove to be the pattern for the day, mom, Keith & I were nearly the last trio to board the bus. The family that came after us were almost always the very last to board. Interesting. Along the mess of freeways and HOV (high occupancy vehicle) lanes we passed the Pentagon. The guide chattered endlessly about timing it just so, so we could all see the impact area from the jet on 9/11. I didn’t care, but, you know, I looked anyway when the time came. Uugh. Mom pointed out the building “looks like a federal penitentiary to me” and when I giggled at her brash observation she stood firm, “Well it DOES!”. It does.

Our first stop of the morning would set the pace for the day. Each monument we visited would be jam packed with hundreds of other tourists, school groups mostly. We would have 8-11 minutes to see it and be back on the bus. All I can really tell you is that I am extremely grateful to have seen what I did get to see, and glad not to have had to do the driving ourselves. Poor mom got drug around quite a bit, but I think she feels the same way, it was all good. So, first stop – Iwo Jima monument. Im-pres-sive. Giant. You do not have any idea the scale of this hunk of sculpture until you stand below, gratitude blowing on the wind up towards the brave solders towering above.

See my mom and I walking away? Can’t even get much of the flagpole in the shot, let alone the flag.

Next, our bus raced over to Arlington National Cemetery. On our departing survey, I chose this as the one stop I would have cut from the tour. And, I don’t really mean that – it’s just that this was probably the worst part for me, as far as tours go. If there was someway to get there on our own, that’s what I would have preferred, but not to get to see it – no, that’s not an option either. And that’s just what about happened. All visitors are put on “trams” to get around on, and with it being a particularly big funeral day, they were shutting all the tram systems down, I do believe we got in on the last tram – and it was a frazzly hassle. Getting to JFK’s tomb and the eternal flame, again, fulfilling to see in person, but elbowing through enormous masses of bodies is just not my thing. Back on the tram in 8 minutes or less, the guides point out the graves of well-known war heros and military politicians. Having been to both Little Bighorn and Gettysburg on this trip, it was interesting to continue my civil war education first hand. To walk on property that once belonged to Robert E. Lee’s wife’s family, a relative of George Washington, helps to piece the history together a bit more at a time. Maybe Arlington needs it’s own blog post, too. Surely I’ll say the same thing about the Smithsonian. Ok, on to the changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Different than experiencing the Evzones in Athens change guards, but equally as steeped in meticulous precision and challenging footwork, this ceremony is worth taking in. This tomb has been guarded for every second of every day since 1937. There are some good YouTube clips of the change, if you are interested to search them.

Crossing the Potomac we walked through and around the Korean War Memorial, and up to the Lincoln Memorial.

And, the view the big guy has, the famous view we all see in movies and on t.v. the view I finally got to take in and soak up real time…

And from here it was a surreal walk over to the Vietnam War Memorial and then a quick trip over to the fairly new WWII Memorial. Tired? We were, but hang on, it wasn’t even lunch time yet! There was no time, really, to stop for lunch, thankfully we had been well advised about this when we booked the trip and packed some on the go foods. So, back on the bus we made our way through the maze of government buildings, embassies, got a peek of the White House, Ford’s Theater, and lots of other important monuments, statues, offices that I (sorry to say) can’t remember.

Reaching the Smithsonian Castle, we now had 3 hours “on your own” time. Whoo Hoo – what to do? Keith and I wanted to do the Natural History Museum, mom wanted to see the collection of the first ladies gowns at the Museum of American History. Over hearing our tentative plans in the women’s restroom, a woman apologized for interupting but said the American History Museum was closed for renovation (devastating to mom), and the Natural History museum was being overrun with just about every “end of the year” school tour in the district (nightmare for me). Settling that, we hopped in a cab and headed over to the Botanical Gardens. Getting mom into the entrance and settled in, Keith and I practically sprinted across the street in front of the Capital building (which is as close as I got to “seeing” the Capital), heading towards the National Gallery of Art. Something about the way we breathlessly and hurriedly grabbed up maps and info prompted a woman to ask “how much time do you have here?” When we told her we had little more than one hour (1.5’ish) she handed us a “maximize your visit” guide with the top 10 pieces to see. Oh, I hear you art lovers out there, believe me, this is NOT the way I do Art Musuems, but what can you do? It was like a treasure hunt, and poor Keith, bless his heart, allowed me to go into full control freak overdrive and make sure we saw each of the top items on the list, all the while trying to ignore all that we would miss.

Favorite piece…I love and hate this question. This day, for me, it was Johannes Vermeer’s Woman Holding a Balance I suggest clicking on the link to see the image. My personal picture doesn’t do it justice resized for the blog.

Finishing up the Gallery in some record breaking speed, we made a brisk walk back to the Botanical Gardens, giving ourselves some time to explore before having to grab another cab and head back to the Castle, where we would meet up with our group and begin our ride back to our condo in Williamsburg.

All this trip really did, is make me put it right back on the list of places to see. High up on the list. I am bitten by the D.C. bug, I hope I get to go back and do the whole whirlwind exhausting day all over again and again.

June 25, 2008

Where’re ya from?

Filed under: Travel,Travel in Mexico — Heligypsy @ 2:34 pm

Sitting on a low antique sofa, crouched and leaning over the tiled floor towards the table where the laptop sat, I checked emails for one last time. Keith sat next to me in a proper high backed chair, also antique, upholstered in rich brown leather.  Another man was using the spacious lobby, lounging in the center of the room, on a cell phone discussing money, trades, deals. If that’s all you saw of this scene, you’d never guess this was Mexico.  The dimly lit Hotel Playa de Cortes in Guaymas, has an air of exclusivity. Indeed, it was originally built as a railway resort overlooking the Gulf of California in 1936, and was a getaway for the wealthy and famous. Still a classy joint today, and one we would have never just happened upon. One more thanks for Traveler’s Guide to Mexican Camping We were on the final leg of our nearly 3 week journey of the west coast of Mexico.

A tall man wearing biker leathers and a skull cap that covered his grey hair, sauntered alongside the dark wooden lobby desk. Putting an elbow on the counter, he turned his body towards us.

“hey, how ya doin’?”

We exchange greetings and fairly common one-liners about travel and the internet. He made some fun and flirty remarks towards me that made me giggle and blush, but that I can no longer remember. We had seen this guy sitting out in the RV addition to the hotel earlier when we rolled in. The plates on his vehicles, motorcycles included, were from Florida. Keith pays attention to these sorts of details, and being the geographic guru that he is, asks the man,

“So, where in Florida are you from?”

“Portland, Oregon” The tall man replied, completely straight-faced, never skipped a beat.

I just died laughing. What a perfect summation for full-timing. I never know what exactly to say to people when they ask where I am from. Do you want to know where I was born? What my mailing address is? Where I “live” now? Keith and I rarely give the same answer, probably makes us look like a couple of hack cons running from the law. I have a t-shirt, I’m wearing it now actually, it says;

“Home is Where You Hook Up”

And the truth of the matter is that Keith and I always figure anywhere we are together is “home”. Right now my Social Networking sites will show that I “live” in Gananoque, Ontario. But Keith is in Alassio, Italy – in 4 more weeks that’s where we will call “home”

May 2, 2008

Going once…Going twice…

Filed under: Travel in the U.S. — Heligypsy @ 8:21 pm

…Going to Storage

As the news of America’s economy falling on hard times seeped in to our little camp in the Caribbean, we took it pretty lightly and with a grain of salt. What else could we do? More than 3000 miles from the U.S., holding no credit card debt and the reasonable assurance that Keith’s career will not be in jeopardy by the threat of the nations possible recession, we were not at high risk of loosing to much. The joke became that we could always stay down in Belize and get by on banana’s and coconuts – that’s how the the Belizeans survive.

Our plan had always been, from day one, to put the little Jamboree C-Sport right back on Ebay where we found it. The fact that we’d put 8000 miles on, meant we had to adjust the price accordingly – factoring the loss in as the cost of spending the winter in Belize for pennies of what it would have cost to have flown down and renting a house and car. The flaw in our plan? American’s have tightened their belts and the market for recreational vehicles has gone soft. Our week long auction on Ebay resulted with the highest bid still being $3,000 less than our absolute bottom price. Shocker, really! Each back-up plan we made fell through, and the offers came in lower and lower, until they were beyond ridiculous. It’s such a great little unit – the right person is out there somewhere. In the meantime, we had to get going on our road-trip to Ontario, Canada, so we put the little Jamboree in storage in Tumwater, WA

Here’s a few photos of us camping our way back to the U.S. and then up to Washington.

Our little home at the marina – daydreaming about the likes of Yachts like Hope as seen here:

Our first night’s camping at the lovely Yax Ha in Chetumal, Mexico:

After a late night driving well into the darkness in Chiapas, Mexico we stopped for the night in a family pasture less than one mile from the beautiful Tonina ruins of Ocosingo:

Brand new RV park, owned by American’s, surprisingly. 1/4 mile walk down to that deserted beach:

Sunset at the same RV park as above, ocean sunsets are always breathtaking:

Parking right on the beach in Punta Perula:

On to Mazatlan for one of the last nights in Mexico:

Catalina State Park just outside of Tucson Arizona in the wonderful Sonoran Desert:

We tried to bid farewell to our little vacation home:

Ended up caravaning up 395 in the snow – oh how we miss the tropics!:

Definitely nice to be back “home” in the full-size HitchHiker – too funny to see them parked side by side:

April 3, 2008

Searching for Bimbo

Filed under: Travel,Travel in Mexico — Heligypsy @ 3:33 pm

Back in January, two months after Keith and I had been traveling through Mexico and into Belize, my friend Rich with Gadget’s Airstream Chronicles posted a blog called The taste that will melt your butter…uh huh. In this blog he posted an adorable picture of his girlfriend Sadira posing next to a Bimbo bakery truck. The two of them clearly had a great time with this companies choice of branding, slogans, and interpretation. Read his post, he looked it all up and laid it all out.

Why is this important to my blog? Well, it is a great example of how quickly I get used to my surroundings. Bimbo trucks and product are EVERYWHERE in Mexico, yet, until his post I never even gave it much thought. For the last two weeks I have been trying to capture just the right Bimbo picture, something unique to Mexico. I hoped to see one of these big delivery trucks jammed in on a tiny little dirt street in Acapulco or Puerto Vallarta, unloading it’s breads and cookies – I have yet to be quick enough with the camera.

As we left Zihuatanejo we stopped at the massive grocery center, Commercial Mexicana to stock up on supplies. At checkout Keith says “Paula, look behind you…”

bimbo.jpg

And in our cart was a loaf of wheat Bimbo bread and Bimbo hot dog buns. I can’t read the snappy slogans, so I have to leave that research to Rich. Good fun 🙂

April 1, 2008

Happy Birthday Keith

Filed under: Travel,Travel in Mexico — Heligypsy @ 12:37 pm

Yesterday, actually. The double nickel. Clever way to phrase it, I thought.

Saturday night we camped at a brand new RV park, Rancho Buganvillas in La Placerita, Mexico – the place is not even on Google Earth yet, they’ve only been open for 5 months. Beautiful hilltop park overlooking a nearly deserted stretch of beach. We were invited to a dinner that our hosts were putting on for friends. The idea of having a steak for the first time in six months sealed that deal – that it turned out to be filet mignon was even better.

Turns out it was a birthday dinner for a woman named Beverly from Ontario, Canada. Actually, all the guests were from Ontario, though Bob and Sherryl have been living in Mexico for the last 18 months. There were two other guests from Quebec, they left shortly after the meal. The owners of the property, Sandy and Cynthia, surprisingly, are from Catalina Island, California. Cynthia asked at one point (already knowing the answer) for everyone at the table who is an Aries to raise their hands.

Beverly (3-29), Sherryl (4-6), Bob (4-7), Me (4-8), Keith (3-31), Cynthia (4-14). The only two hands that stayed down were Sandy, and Don – they knew they were in for some trouble, ha ha. Actually, they both just stayed fairly quiet and the rest of us (except Keith, really) competed to own the conversation. It was a fun dinner, more new friends, and Aries to boot, this has been a great trip 🙂

Yesterday we had to put in a little bit of driving to get to the outskirts of Puerto Vallarta, our new little slice of heaven on earth. There was not much I could do for Keith for gifts or cards, I told him I’d take him to a nice dinner out (which is for the both of us). After setting up camp we went for a walk along the beach. It’s a steep beach, popular with the surfers. At times it gets extremely rocky, the sound of tide rushing out over the rocks reminds me of doing school projects cracking marbles in hot water.

Keith is a rock hound, and knowing I wanted a gift to give him, said I could find him a birthday rock for his collection, said he’s short of red rocks with black in them – they are very hard to find. Scanning the glistening pile of rock and shell was challenging, especially when it came to retrieval…I had to grab quick before the waves would return and wash potential scores back out to sea. I found a couple itty bitty red things, nothing spectacular, a few very colorful polished rock-looking shell remnants, and, though I was not looking for anything green my eye caught on an interesting shape and color that I managed to scoop just before the water could steal it from me.

The Birthday Love Rock –

birthday-rock-004.jpg

Keith says it might be one of my best birthday gifts yet. I laughed and said “Even better than the Ipod that I loaded some of your favorite tunes on?” He says yes, because this one was found. It’s meant to be, just like most everything else on this trip.

Dinner topped off another perfect day. The recommendation was to go to Don Pedros on the beach, Monday night is Salsa night! Well, we skipped the dancing, but had a fabulously fancy meal of seared tuna, ginger mahi-mahi, thick horseradish infused mashed potato, seaweed of some description, shitake mushrooms – you get the idea. Finished off with chocolate mousse, we were two very happy campers. We sat in the candlelit patio over looking the ocean reminiscing about other meals in other countries, grateful for the memories we share.

Yes. We do know how lucky we are. (That’s for you, Bonnie from Freddies)

March 23, 2008

Felices Pascuas – Happy Easter

Filed under: Travel,Travel in Mexico — Heligypsy @ 6:40 am

We left Belize two days ago to begin our 4,000 mile journey back to California. I am so happy that we left Belize when we did. Central America only has two seasons, rainy and dry. The only time the flowers bloom in mass is after a good long rain. There is no springtime, and I had no idea how much I would have missed it.

Yesterday morning we explored the ruins of Tonina in the town of Ocosingo, state of Chiapas. The morning was overcast and cool, with vistas of mountainous hillside farmland as far as we could see. Trees bursting with new growth and flower buds that were about to pop stood everywhere we looked.

“Que Bella!” I exclaimed, and realized….wrong country…how do you say ‘How beautiful’ in Spanish?

“Muy Bonita” Ahhh, si! Que Bella came to mind because this entire area, the topography, the climate, the season, the approaching holiday, even the language, reminded me of spending time in Monfalcone, Italy. I was having flashbacks of being on the train platform the day before Easter, an overcast and cool morning, waiting to take the train to Venice with lots of Italians dressed in their best, excitedly chatting about the next day’s holiday. As we left Ocosingo, the familiar feelings and images of Italy prevailed.

We are in Tuxtla Gutierrez on this Easter morning, getting ready for day three of our journey home. No, no Sunday Sunrise service for us, but we will enjoy what the day has to offer – and hope you all do too.

Happy Easter 🙂

March 10, 2008

No Saving Time in Belize

Filed under: Travel,Travel in Central America — Heligypsy @ 10:05 am

Yesterday the computer showed that it was 8:08 a.m., and even though we’d slept in, I thought this was really odd, impossible even. Glancing at the battery operated wall clock above my head reading 7:08 confirmed that for some of the world, Daylight Savings had just occurred. It wasn’t until today that either Keith or I even cared if Belize acknowledged the switching of the clocks.

Ali put it this way, “It’s hard enough already to get these people to go to work, let alone try and trick them to go in an hour earlier.” Good point.

So, we split hairs about what time zone that put us in – we decided that while we stay on CST, our clocks now match that of MST. If a person had to be somewhere at a certain time, it would all be very confusing. Thankfully, we don’t.

It wouldn’t have mattered too much, anyway. Today is a holiday. Or, rather it’s a day off from work after the weekend of a holiday. March 9th is Baron Bliss Day. Stories vary, but the jist is that a wealthy British born traveler, Henry Edward Ernest Victor Bliss willed the country, at the time British Honduras, two million dollars to a trust for its citizens. He is a much celebrated hero in their eyes even today- though I can’t help but wonder if his “trust” was handled anything like the $10 Million Venezuela’s Chavez recently gave to Belize, now found to be completely unaccounted for and disputed to be closer to $40 Million. The citizens were never going to see a dime, that much is obvious. We’ll just have to see how that plays out.

The weekends celebration events included a 2 day canoe race from one end of the country to the other ending today, and a major bicycle race from Belmopan, the countries Capital, to Belize City, the former Capital. A ride of about 45 miles along the Western Highway.

We had gone into town to buy a few supplies for the week, unaware of the cyclist sprint that had just taken place. Traffic cops frantically waved their arms for us to ignore the light and come ahead, Come Ahead, COME AHEAD – we don’t drive near crazy or fast enough for the likes of the people around here. When we made it through the intersection, there was more arm waving and I wondered why we seemed to be the target of all this attention. I rolled my window down, a cyclist straddling her bike was pointing to us, urgently, and when we passed slowly by I could hear her arguing with a cop on the sidewalk,

“Why can’t they take her?” and then directly to me she said “Can you take an injured cyclist to the hospital in the back of your truck?”

“Of course” was the only possible response.

A half dozen spectators began to direct us to park near the curb of the sidewalk. I got out of the truck, and sure enough, a woman nearly unconscious with scraped and bloodied knees was sprawled on the concrete. The tailgate was lowered, and I asked why we couldn’t lay her in the backseat,

“it’s better for her to be straight out” they said, and I didn’t argue.

Thinking about the situation later gave me chills, to remember her limp body being situated into the truck bed, maneuvered with someones camouflage jacket as a gurney. This would NEVER happen in the States. Here we didn’t even consider the liability of our actions, there was no ambulance around, and the woman needed medical attention. Who organizes an event like this, and doesn’t secure on site medical assistance? Belize, no surprise. The cyclist and one of her very own teammates had collided during the sprint. Her teammate was already at the hospital, it was not more than 5 blocks away. Again, we were hurried to get moving, hurried to make the turn, hurried to get to the Emergency entrance. Keith kept a slow and steady pace, against all efforts to get him to race around like a mad person. I don’t know the outcome of her situation.

On the way back to the marina I got the impression the big race was about to come through very shortly. People were parked along the side of the road, here and there, very spectator looking. Reaching the Police checkpoint we saw the cones and ropes had been removed, and the cop while waving people through, also issued the request to “go along carefully”. We stopped at the entrance of the marina and waited for the big show. Within less than ten minutes the lead cyclists raced by. Another 2 or 3 minutes and the peloton passed, followed by 20 or 30 unofficial support vehicles of all makes, models and condition, driving rapid speeds and passing one another.

We hung around watching groups of three, two and single riders, risk their lives racing on the Western Highway, of which regular traffic had not been diverted. I left just after a group of cyclists were nearly run over by a speeding truck coming behind them. The driver refused to break to slow. There was oncoming traffic passing the cyclists and this person just roared right up to the back tires of the poor racers, before swerving wildly to make his pass once the oncoming vehicles had cleared. Shaking my head, I could watch no more of this maddness.

This photo is from last weekend, and while it fails to show any real elements of danger, our luck is usually that we come up on groups on both sides of the road, with a guy on our tail thinking of passing at the same time as a large oncoming vehicle approaches and we all meet in the middle. I hold my breath a lot around here 🙂

bike-racers.jpg

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